Technical: Diagnosing Cranking, No-Start Failures - AutoSuccessOnline (2024)

By: Gary Goms, courtesy of ImportCar magazine

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Technical: Diagnosing Cranking, No-Start Failures - AutoSuccessOnline (1)

By the dawn of the Industrial Age, the gasoline internal combustion engine had replaced steam power as the driving force behind America’s great economic expansion. In that day, a cranking, no-start condition could easily be diagnosed by testing the available spark at the spark plug. If there was no spark, we touched a test light to the coil negative terminal to determine if the distributor contact points were switching the coil on/off (see Photo 1). If the test light blinked, the primary circuit was switching as designed, so we replaced the coil. A pretty simple diagnosis, right?

But today’s ignition systems pose an entirely different set of problems because the crankshaft sensors, camshaft sensors, ignition coils, spark plug wires and spark plugs used in modern systems are often buried under intake plenums, drive belts and rotating accessories. So, when we can’t access the secondary circuit, which consists of the spark plugs, wires and ignition coils, we can diagnose the secondary ignition system through the “back door” by testing the primary circuit.

Modern Switching Systems
The primary circuit switching function begins with the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) reporting the crankshaft position in rotational degrees, relative to top dead center (TDC) of each cylinder to the engine control module (ECM). Modern engines with solid-state primary ignitions also mount a camshaft position (CMP) sensor at a camshaft drive sprocket to indicate number-one cylinder arriving at compression stroke. The ECM uses this input data to correctly time the spark advance curve according to engine operating conditions.

The sole exception to the above statement is the waste-spark system in which each coil of a “coil-pack” assembly simultaneously fires two companion cylinders, one at TDC compression stroke and the other at TDC exhaust stroke. Since either companion cylinder is at TDC, the waste-spark ignition doesn’t require a camshaft position sensor to determine TDC compression stroke. In any case, a scan tool can be used to verify switching function (see Photo 2).

Technical: Diagnosing Cranking, No-Start Failures - AutoSuccessOnline (2)

CKP Codes
The absence of a CKP trouble code is relatively meaningless when diagnosing cranking, no-start failures. In most cases, a CKP code is a “two-trip” code, which means that the CKP must fail two consecutive times before the check engine light will illuminate. Depending upon the vehicle, the initial CKP failure will be recorded as a pending code. After a key-off cycle, the second CKP failure should illuminate the check engine light and store as a history code.

Scope Testing the CKP
A lab scope can be used to observe the quality of the CKP signal. A two-wire magnetic reluctor sensor should produce a waveform that switches smoothly from positive to negative voltage at approximately a 3-volt amplitude during cranking.

A three-wire Hall Effect sensor should produce a crisp square-wave pattern that pulls to zero volts during cranking. If the Hall sensor signal tends to “float,” or if the square-wave pattern is a corrupted, it can’t be read by the ECM. The exception to this rule is the magneto-resistive sensor that doesn’t pull to zero volts, but should display a crisp square-wave signal.

A Primary Voltage Test
Dwell angle is the number of camshaft degrees that current is flowing through the ignition primary circuit. Positive duty cycle or “on-time” is another measure of the same phenomenon. Since the dwell angle or duty cycle on modern ignitions can be very low at cranking and idle speeds, using a test light probably won’t indicate a switching function.

One quick method of testing switching function is to use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) for comparing voltages at coil B+ and coil negative terminals. In general, this test works better on single or waste-spark coils than with coil-on-plug designs.

At key-on, engine off, both terminals should show battery voltage. Although the exact voltage differential depends upon the type of system, the coil negative voltage should decrease in proportion to the amperage flowing through the primary winding during cranking.

If B+ and coil negative voltages are equal during cranking, the ECM isn’t switching the primary circuit. Your conclusion should be that the ECM coil driver or driver circuit isn’t switching the primary circuit.

A Word About Testing Coils
In theory, ignition coils can be diagnosed by comparing the resistances of the primary and secondary circuits to specification at room temperature. In reality, the resistance test is a static test that means little unless the test value is well out of specification.

In the real world, most coils will fail only under dynamic conditions of heat and load, both of which can be very difficult to duplicate. It’s far more cost-effective to replace the suspect coil, than to spend hours trying to duplicate a heat and load condition. Your choice, but I’ve had too many “saved” coils come back to haunt me.

Technical: Diagnosing Cranking, No-Start Failures - AutoSuccessOnline (3)

Low-Amp Probes
That said, another way to diagnose some primary systems is to connect a low-amperage inductive current probe or “amp clamp” to a lab scope. The probe is then attached to the voltage source powering the coil. In most cases, the coil B+ wire can be accessed at a common voltage source in the wiring harness. In other cases, the coil’s current flow can be measured at the fuse box or at the coil B- terminal in the ECM connector (see Photos 3 and 4).

Technical: Diagnosing Cranking, No-Start Failures - AutoSuccessOnline (4)

COP Testing
The coil-on-plug (COP) system, which mounts an ignition coil on each spark plug, is now the current standard for modern engines. A failed coil-on-plug is relatively easy to identify since a coil failure usually results in a P0301 to P0312 misfire code as indicated by a scan tool.

Two-wire COP connectors contain a B+ voltage source and a coil negative circuit to the ECM coil driver. Four-wire coil connectors, as used in some Toyota applications, contain a B+ voltage source, a B- battery/chassis ground, an IGT (ignition timing) and an IGF (ignition fail) circuit as well. The coil dwell and timing are controlled by the ECM through the IGT coil terminal. The 5-volt IGF circuit reports coil activity to the ECM. Both the IGT and the IGF activity can be verified with a lab scope. As with two-wire coils, four-wire coils can also be diagnosed by searching for misfire codes with a scan tool.

Technical: Diagnosing Cranking, No-Start Failures - AutoSuccessOnline (5)

Ignition Monitors
Space doesn’t allow, but many manufacturers incorporate a number of circuit-specific trouble codes into their COP ignition systems. In this case, your enhanced scan tool is your best friend. If that data isn’t available, use your lab scope to its best advantage.

When testing primary ignition, be aware that many digital lab scopes won’t tolerate the high voltage “kicks” (about 250kV to 400 kV) present in the primary circuit. When measuring the primary waveform with any lab scope, it’s best to protect your lab scope by using an attenuated 10:1 lead designed for direct primary circuit testing.

Sidebar:

It’s All in the Technique
Let’s diagnose a cranking, no-spark complaint on an engine with the spark plugs covered by the intake plenum. Let’s also bury the ignition coil inside the distributor cap, as on some older Mitsubishi V-6 engines. And, since voltage is king in any electrical diagnosis, let’s make sure the battery is in good condition and fully charged.

Here’s how I begin a basic cranking, no-start primary ignition diagnosis:

  1. Use the least intrusive methods for diagnosing cranking, no-start failures.
  2. If the engine tachometer shows a cranking speed of around 200-300 rpm, the CKP is reporting crankshaft position to the ECM.
  3. If the engine tachometer shows zero cranking rpm, it’s time to connect an enhanced scan tool.
  4. If the scan data indicates zero cranking rpm, or if a dedicated data line indicates no CKP activity, the crankshaft position sensor isn’t reporting crank position to the ECM.
  5. If available, primary circuit trouble codes will quickly identify a primary circuit problem
  6. If available, a bi-directional test for ignition can be used to verify coil and coil driver operation.
  7. If the scan tool bidirectional can’t activate the ignition primary circuit, the ignition likely has a voltage source problem caused by a burned fuse or a faulty ignition switch.
  8. Use a wiring schematic to locate fuses and relays that might power the ignition system.
  9. Use the wiring schematic to develop a diagnostic strategy for locating wiring splices and connector problems.
  10. Since all ignition systems share basic operating principles, it’s easy to develop a diagnostic strategy that will quickly locate any primary ignition failure.
Technical: Diagnosing Cranking, No-Start Failures - AutoSuccessOnline (2024)

FAQs

How do you diagnose a no crank no start condition? ›

Why Won't My Vehicle Start?
  1. Test #1: Check the Battery. ...
  2. Test #2: Check the Alternator and Starter. ...
  3. Test #3: Check the Car Spark Plugs. ...
  4. Test #4: Check the Fuel Injection System. ...
  5. Test #5: Check the Fuel Tank Levels.
Jul 22, 2021

What diagnostic tests should be performed on a vehicle that cranks but will not start? ›

First, Check the Basics - The very first step to diagnose a “cranks but won't start” problem is to find if something's missing – Spark, Fuel and Compression (which includes cam timing). These three things are required for an engine to start.

What sensors can cause crank no start? ›

If your crankshaft sensor is bad, your car usually won't start. This is because your engine doesn't get any information from the ECU or PCM regarding your crankshaft, so the vehicle will think there's a transmission or fuel injection problem.

What is the first thing you check on an engine with a no start issue? ›

The best way to get to the bottom of your problem, though, is by starting at the spark plugs and working your way back. The plugs aren't firing, so they're not getting current. Next thing to check might be the distributor (if you have one). Then check the coil pack.

How much does a no crank no start diagnosis cost? ›

The average cost for a No Start Diagnosis is between $88 and $144 but can vary from car to car.

Can a blown fuse cause a crank no start? ›

Blown fuse – Sometimes the simplest explanation is the best one. A blown fuse in the starter circuit could be the cause of a no-start problem. Broken or corroded wiring – Damaged or dirty wires to the battery or to the starter solenoid (or wires that are loose) can prevent sufficient power from reaching the starter.

Can bad spark plugs cause no crank no start? ›

If spark plugs have become clogged or worn down, the car's engine has to work overtime in order to make up for the overworked plugs. Sometimes the car will not start at all because there is simply not enough spark created to turn the engine over.

What could be the cause of a car cranking but not starting? ›

One common culprit for this problem is the crankshaft position sensor, which measures the position and speed of the crankshaft. The computer uses the information from this sensor to know when to fire the spark plugs. If the sensor isn't working, the spark plugs won't fire, keeping the engine from starting.

How do you troubleshoot an engine that wont start? ›

What to Do If Your Car Won't Start
  1. If the Car Clicks When Trying to Start. Try Cycling the Key. Try Tapping on the Battery Terminals. Try Tapping the Starter.
  2. If There's No Click When You Turn the Key. Try Shifting the Shifter.
  3. If the Engine Cranks But Won't Fire Up. Try Swapping Relays. Try Smacking the Fuel Tank.
Apr 19, 2024

Can a camshaft sensor cause no crank no start? ›

Car Will Not Start: Over time, as the camshaft position sensor fails, the signal it sends to the engine control module weakens. When the engine no longer receives the signal, you will not be able to start your car. Engine Misfires: A failing camshaft position sensor can cause your engine to misfire.

What sensors will keep a car from cranking? ›

Alternatively, a bad mass air flow sensor or oxygen sensor can cause issues with the fuel delivery, resulting in the engine stalling or not starting at all. A faulty throttle position sensor can also cause issues with the air-to-fuel ratio, causing the engine to start roughly or not at all.

How do you test if a crank sensor is bad? ›

Using your OBD-II scanner, run the engine and monitor the sensor's readings and the engine's RPM to see if the sensor is working correctly. Check the sensor's resistance. You can use a multimeter to check the sensor's resistance. You'll need a helper to crank the engine over while you test.

Which component can cause a no start condition? ›

A no crank situation can be caused by a bad starter motor, dead battery or loose cables or maybe corrosion in the cables. No start is the engine is cranking and turning over but does not fire up. This can be a fuel issue or no spark issue.

Why is my car not cranking but not starting? ›

If you don't hear clicking when you start the engine, the problem may be a dead battery. If you hear clicking, but the engine doesn't crank, the starter might not be getting enough electricity. Using your owner's manual and a voltmeter, you should be able to test functionality.

Can a bad ignition coil cause no crank no start? ›

Since ignition coils are responsible for delivering electricity to your spark plugs, you may notice that starting your engine is difficult with a failed ignition coil. In fact, if you have a single ignition coil, your vehicle may not start at all due to no spark being delivered to the spark plugs.

Why is my car not cranking but has power? ›

A low battery is the most frequent cause of a car having power but not turning over. Other causes include a bad starter, a bad alternator, or electrical issues. If you hear clicking, whirring, or nothing at all when trying to start your car, you may have a bad starter, malfunctioning alternator, or low battery.

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